Good to finish in Graz

• 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  It seems that both Germany and Austria have gone on annual holidays this weekend if the TV pictures at airports and on the free-ways are any indication. So down here in Graz there are now a few more backpackers getting about and there are more people on the trains. Yesterday, and just to be sure that we are keeping up train travel time, we jumped on a few trains to spend the day in the Styrian region trying to get a better feel for the smaller villages around here.
  
  Before doing that we returned to the edge of the city and Schloss Eggenberg where Yvonne was very keen to go on a guided tour of the schloss as we had turned up just a bit late the day before for a tour. But no, no tour this morning as the place was putting on a concert. Randall suggested a consolation with a visit to St Jacob church in nearby Thal where body builder Arnie Schwarzenegger comes from. He thought that as we have also been recently doing some of our own body changing because of our recent Slovenian and Austrian meal habits, this might brighten Yvonne's feelings. Not my best suggestion.
  
  The train system is timely and well run with plenty of trains strutting their stuff so we had no problems putting together a plan for the day.
  
  So we headed north to the small town of Frohneiten which was very pretty and where we eventually had lunch. Sunday eating out in the small towns and villages in this quite catholic part of the world can be a bit of a challenge as a lot of places are closed but this town was big enough to have a couple of places going.
  
  From lunch we went further north and deeper into the pretty valleys to the town of Leoben where they had an impressive special exhibition on Alexander the Great. A couple of ice creams later and we were then heading back towards Graz. Very relaxed travel through the pretty hills and by the end of the day we were home.
  
  After dinner we watched the world cup football final. In Graz there were quite a few places with TVs going but, understandably, footy fever was not quite the descriptor for crowd reactions here in Austria.
  
  This morning, despite the quite warm weather conditions (30 degrees) we thoroughly explored and enjoyed the inner city area. As the second biggest city in Austria it had significant Hapsburg interest leaving a legacy of great buildings. There was no real damage in WWII which is also good for us now.
  
  As an early birthday present, we are off to an aging John Fogerty concert this evening as he is in town. Yvonne is a bit apprehensive, recalling Randall's bright idea to surprise Yvonne with a Lucinda Williams concert for her birthday a few years ago. After that event we had a very quiet household for several months. So we could be in for an interesting flight home on Wednesday.
  
  As always, and especially in countries where you do not have the local language, you have to dig into things just that bit further to discover what might be there hiding down that laneway of through that doorway. We are getting better at doing just that.
  
  And finally, this is the time to end this blog. We trust that any who have followed the trip enjoyed the read and are ready to buy the book when she publishes it.
  
  On the inevitable question of “What were the highlights?” my response would be:
  
  The bike and sail experience. Great trip, great people, great weather, great water in an area of great beauty. Croatia is a fascinating developing country.
  
  Walking through Hallstatt area. Fantastic scenery, interesting history, great walking in such a picturesque setting.
  
  Watching Yvonne's face as she launched from the back of the yacht into the Adriatic for the first time. Priceless.
  
  Learning a little about the complex history and tensions in this part of the world.
  
  Enjoying travel and contact with friendly courteous people who just want to have a better life than their parents had.
  
  Walking in France (again) with a bunch of bleeding hearts acting like boys again and enjoying life.
  
  Yvonne taking an opportunity to further develop her artistic talents deep in rural France.
  
  Realising just how compatible a couple can be after nearly 40 years together. Canny how often we were thinking the same things.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Post script: The concert was a hoot. Deep southern US rock in downtown Graz. All patrons standing places only (except wheelchairs which had their own stands). Drinks available around the place and plenty of space at the rear for those who wanted a break. She (Y) survived the event and even joined in a few times. He (R) brought to the surface again a childhood of listening to very early morning country and western radio, of growing into Nashville music and the Everly Brothers, Bruce Springsteen, parts of Dylan and even Neil Young. 65 year old Fogerty delivered the goods and the local boomers were jumping and hollerin'
  

Travelling by train

An issue with travelling is how long on the road is enough. We have done our share of travelling over the last nine years or so and this question still arises. Just one week ago we were getting ready to leave our new friends on the “Romantica” bike and sail holiday to set off again on our own to discover new places.

Whilst we liked Dubrovnik a lot and we needed to take the opportunity to see it whilst in this region, we did feel that we could have had a day less. From Dubrovnik we took a day to travel inland to Zagreb, the idea being to get another view on Croatia and how people live there. From Zagreb we were essentially heading back to Munich and the plane back to Australia, using the train system to make short stops at Maribor and Graz. Stops here were mainly for sentimental reasons relating to Randalls' fathers' time in this area during WWII. Fair enough.

However, at this stage of our travels, we mentally “turned the corner” some time in Dubrovnik so that, like other animals, when we get a sniff that we might be heading home, that goal seems to dominate matters.

So, no matter how interesting a place is, how good the weather is or how much effort we have made to get to places, interest wanes, energy levels drop and we will be happy enough to climb aboard the aircraft next Wednesday.

But, hold on, Graz has reignited the candle and the urge to explore. This town is better than Salzburg in our opinion and has a lot less tourists. We are situated just outside the old town with a view of the river and the old town – very picturesque. We have already extended our stay here. Perhaps we might even take a trip out to the Styrian countryside and take in a walk in the water-filled gorges and lunch in a little village or see another schloss. Which direction, town should we visit? So many choices!

Surprising Zagreb

When putting this travel package together, we decided to head back towards Munich and the plane home via Zagreb, Maribor in Slovenia and then Graz in Austria. Zagreb was there to gain an “inland” view of Croatia whilst the other two towns were chosen largely on a sentimental basis as these were places where Randall's father had either passed through or spent time as a POW in WWII.

Croatia is on holidays now so Zagreb has less people than normal. Nevertheless, we were very impressed with the capital both from an architectural and human living points of view. We investigated the old parts of Zagreb, took in the museums and art galleries and the beautiful cemetery which as someone said: these people are better housed in death than they ever were in life (very unique); whilst following the world cup soccer semi finals.

We saw enough of the old town to form the view that Zagreb is quite a sophisticated city with plenty going for it and great potential. The city bus and tram system is well run and quite extensive. There is a very big cafe culture happening, especially with the younger set. And there is a good range of museums and galleries. There are quite a few buildings needing maintenance and graffiti is a big a problem here as it is in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra.

More on Dubrovnik

For our first evening in Dubrovnik we simply walked out of our well located apartment made one turn and we were in perhaps the prettiest square in the town. With no cars at all, plenty of cafes and small restaurants and quite a few people just walking around enjoying the ambiance, it was easy to slide into city life. On the recommendation of our hostess we tried the seafood at a simple but extremely efficient tavern and it was great. We ate their again a couple of nights later. The place was popular, turning over customers at a rapid rate and always a dozen or so queued up to get in.

You can feel history as you walk around the town, except perhaps in the middle hours of the day when the cruise ships and tourist buses are in. Apart from the mandatory walk around the city walls, we visited galleries, museums and churches in the couple of days we were there. We also walked out of the old town to a local beach for one last swim before we start heading inland.

Yes, we liked Dubrovnik. However, we both felt that the port town of Trogir was a better overall experience as it is smaller, the ships are right there in the town with you and the tourist traffic is considerably less.

Adriatic jewel of Dubrovnik

A jewel in the Croatian crown, even if expensive by Croatian standards is Dubrovnik. For us it was almost 5 hours by comfortable inter city bus from Split to Dubrovnik and a great ride along the coast road and some stunning scenery. We arrived early on Saturday evening to find the old town alive and well, if a bit overloaded with us tourists. We had booked an apartment in the old town just a couple of steps from a picturesque square and it turned out to be perfect for us. Close to all sites and eating places with no need to go outside the fantastic city walls. The place is full of history which we are slowly taking in.

Seeing a city like this and realising that just 20 years ago, war was tearing the place apart made us realise just how futile some people can be. Whilst most people just want to get on with enjoying a peaceful existence with family and friends, there are always those who covert wealth and resources and who have an overwhelming desire to control other peoples' destiny.

As a cross roads between “Christian Europe” and “Muslim middle east”, the communities in these parts have long suffered from outside invasion or indifference. Bosnia, Serbia, Lebanon, Gaza, Iraq, Afghanistan are all places where invaders, including Australia, have pursued, and continue to pursue misguided foreign policies with tragic consequences. There is plenty to learn by just sitting in a cafe in this beautiful city of Dubrovonik and watching the people of the world pass by enjoying themselves whilst the inhabitants here make the best of the assets they have preserved for us all.

Australia has been sucked into almost 9 years of useless invasion in Afghanistan based on cooked up pretences and is continuing these foolish polices which have unknown consequences as we follow a dying US empire towards an inevitable consequence of collapse. If only people who aspire for power and control could take the time to come to places like Dubrovnik for just a few days of actually thinking before acting then things might turn out differently for us all.

Le Tour de Croatia-derniere etape

Day 6 was an extremely impressive day on the island of Hvar. In the morning we sailed in to Hvar town where we had just an hour or so to check out the town. It was enough time to get a feel but soon enough we were on the bikes and climbing into the hills towards Brusje and the old town of Stari Grad. It was another quite tough day of climbing, climbing. Over the day we biked just over 40 kms with about 400-500 climbing metres required.

Stari Grad is a very sophisticated town with a long history of human inhabitation and we were glad to be spending the night there.

Day 7 was unfortunately the last of the bike riding. We sailed back towards the mainland and Trogir heading from Hvar and past the strategic island of Vis to the relatively quiet island of Solta. On Solta we had a fairly easy 19 kms of riding from an almost deserted Necujam to a little town, Maslinica. The day was hot and the hills were slightly flatter than the others. By now we were all just that bit fitter and more confident in handling the bikes and the conditions. So there was plenty of chatter going on as we rode along. We were also joined by a group on a sister ship also heading back to Trogir and the finish of their trip from Dubrovnik to Trogir.

After the bike ride we sailed along for about 30 minutes before stopping for just one more swim in the warm Adriatic. Heaven.

And that was our bike and sail adventure over. A farewell Captain's dinner, a restless nights sleep alongside in the now hot and noisy port and after breakfast we were packed and back into travel mode again.

Le Tour de Croatia-etapes quatre et cinq

On day 4 we made a brief stop at the tiny port on Mljet of Pomena to unload the bikes for our brief visit to this island national park. We only had time for a 12 kms ride to a couple of inland lakes and then a quick swim before getting back onto the “Romantica” and sailing away. By late afternoon we were tied up alongside other ships being 5 in a row of 7 deep, in the major resort town of Korcula and relaxing before our dinner.

Day 5 was the zenith for bike riding. An all day ride from Korcula town along almost the whole island to Vela Luka. About 60 kms of riding and 800 climbing metres. There was an option of a shorter ride to Racisce where you could be picked up by the boat as it was making it's own way to Vela Luka. And some did take the shorter ride.

For the majority, we found the first half of the ride to be very tough indeed. Training results were in and I have to say that the Germans, Swiss and Austrians were outstanding. There were some very fit forty, fifty and sixty year olds in this cohort. The Australians and the Swedes were quietly competent whilst the US component was quite good but showing the results of living in a society where technology is the answer to everything. When it comes to basic pedal power and fitness, the Europeans had us on toast, Not that this was a competition!

Coming down the mountain from Blato was almost a repeat of day 4's descent into Bol. Sheer exhilaration as you stream down through the ranges, sweeping around bends whilst taking in the views. Photo opportunities were sometimes difficult to do as it meant slamming on the brakes, taking a quick point and shoot before heading down again, trying to catch up with others.

A quick swim with the locals at Vela Luka and then it was food and wine before crashing into bed.