Good to finish in Graz

• 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  It seems that both Germany and Austria have gone on annual holidays this weekend if the TV pictures at airports and on the free-ways are any indication. So down here in Graz there are now a few more backpackers getting about and there are more people on the trains. Yesterday, and just to be sure that we are keeping up train travel time, we jumped on a few trains to spend the day in the Styrian region trying to get a better feel for the smaller villages around here.
  
  Before doing that we returned to the edge of the city and Schloss Eggenberg where Yvonne was very keen to go on a guided tour of the schloss as we had turned up just a bit late the day before for a tour. But no, no tour this morning as the place was putting on a concert. Randall suggested a consolation with a visit to St Jacob church in nearby Thal where body builder Arnie Schwarzenegger comes from. He thought that as we have also been recently doing some of our own body changing because of our recent Slovenian and Austrian meal habits, this might brighten Yvonne's feelings. Not my best suggestion.
  
  The train system is timely and well run with plenty of trains strutting their stuff so we had no problems putting together a plan for the day.
  
  So we headed north to the small town of Frohneiten which was very pretty and where we eventually had lunch. Sunday eating out in the small towns and villages in this quite catholic part of the world can be a bit of a challenge as a lot of places are closed but this town was big enough to have a couple of places going.
  
  From lunch we went further north and deeper into the pretty valleys to the town of Leoben where they had an impressive special exhibition on Alexander the Great. A couple of ice creams later and we were then heading back towards Graz. Very relaxed travel through the pretty hills and by the end of the day we were home.
  
  After dinner we watched the world cup football final. In Graz there were quite a few places with TVs going but, understandably, footy fever was not quite the descriptor for crowd reactions here in Austria.
  
  This morning, despite the quite warm weather conditions (30 degrees) we thoroughly explored and enjoyed the inner city area. As the second biggest city in Austria it had significant Hapsburg interest leaving a legacy of great buildings. There was no real damage in WWII which is also good for us now.
  
  As an early birthday present, we are off to an aging John Fogerty concert this evening as he is in town. Yvonne is a bit apprehensive, recalling Randall's bright idea to surprise Yvonne with a Lucinda Williams concert for her birthday a few years ago. After that event we had a very quiet household for several months. So we could be in for an interesting flight home on Wednesday.
  
  As always, and especially in countries where you do not have the local language, you have to dig into things just that bit further to discover what might be there hiding down that laneway of through that doorway. We are getting better at doing just that.
  
  And finally, this is the time to end this blog. We trust that any who have followed the trip enjoyed the read and are ready to buy the book when she publishes it.
  
  On the inevitable question of “What were the highlights?” my response would be:
  
  The bike and sail experience. Great trip, great people, great weather, great water in an area of great beauty. Croatia is a fascinating developing country.
  
  Walking through Hallstatt area. Fantastic scenery, interesting history, great walking in such a picturesque setting.
  
  Watching Yvonne's face as she launched from the back of the yacht into the Adriatic for the first time. Priceless.
  
  Learning a little about the complex history and tensions in this part of the world.
  
  Enjoying travel and contact with friendly courteous people who just want to have a better life than their parents had.
  
  Walking in France (again) with a bunch of bleeding hearts acting like boys again and enjoying life.
  
  Yvonne taking an opportunity to further develop her artistic talents deep in rural France.
  
  Realising just how compatible a couple can be after nearly 40 years together. Canny how often we were thinking the same things.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Post script: The concert was a hoot. Deep southern US rock in downtown Graz. All patrons standing places only (except wheelchairs which had their own stands). Drinks available around the place and plenty of space at the rear for those who wanted a break. She (Y) survived the event and even joined in a few times. He (R) brought to the surface again a childhood of listening to very early morning country and western radio, of growing into Nashville music and the Everly Brothers, Bruce Springsteen, parts of Dylan and even Neil Young. 65 year old Fogerty delivered the goods and the local boomers were jumping and hollerin'
  

Travelling by train

An issue with travelling is how long on the road is enough. We have done our share of travelling over the last nine years or so and this question still arises. Just one week ago we were getting ready to leave our new friends on the “Romantica” bike and sail holiday to set off again on our own to discover new places.

Whilst we liked Dubrovnik a lot and we needed to take the opportunity to see it whilst in this region, we did feel that we could have had a day less. From Dubrovnik we took a day to travel inland to Zagreb, the idea being to get another view on Croatia and how people live there. From Zagreb we were essentially heading back to Munich and the plane back to Australia, using the train system to make short stops at Maribor and Graz. Stops here were mainly for sentimental reasons relating to Randalls' fathers' time in this area during WWII. Fair enough.

However, at this stage of our travels, we mentally “turned the corner” some time in Dubrovnik so that, like other animals, when we get a sniff that we might be heading home, that goal seems to dominate matters.

So, no matter how interesting a place is, how good the weather is or how much effort we have made to get to places, interest wanes, energy levels drop and we will be happy enough to climb aboard the aircraft next Wednesday.

But, hold on, Graz has reignited the candle and the urge to explore. This town is better than Salzburg in our opinion and has a lot less tourists. We are situated just outside the old town with a view of the river and the old town – very picturesque. We have already extended our stay here. Perhaps we might even take a trip out to the Styrian countryside and take in a walk in the water-filled gorges and lunch in a little village or see another schloss. Which direction, town should we visit? So many choices!

Surprising Zagreb

When putting this travel package together, we decided to head back towards Munich and the plane home via Zagreb, Maribor in Slovenia and then Graz in Austria. Zagreb was there to gain an “inland” view of Croatia whilst the other two towns were chosen largely on a sentimental basis as these were places where Randall's father had either passed through or spent time as a POW in WWII.

Croatia is on holidays now so Zagreb has less people than normal. Nevertheless, we were very impressed with the capital both from an architectural and human living points of view. We investigated the old parts of Zagreb, took in the museums and art galleries and the beautiful cemetery which as someone said: these people are better housed in death than they ever were in life (very unique); whilst following the world cup soccer semi finals.

We saw enough of the old town to form the view that Zagreb is quite a sophisticated city with plenty going for it and great potential. The city bus and tram system is well run and quite extensive. There is a very big cafe culture happening, especially with the younger set. And there is a good range of museums and galleries. There are quite a few buildings needing maintenance and graffiti is a big a problem here as it is in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra.

More on Dubrovnik

For our first evening in Dubrovnik we simply walked out of our well located apartment made one turn and we were in perhaps the prettiest square in the town. With no cars at all, plenty of cafes and small restaurants and quite a few people just walking around enjoying the ambiance, it was easy to slide into city life. On the recommendation of our hostess we tried the seafood at a simple but extremely efficient tavern and it was great. We ate their again a couple of nights later. The place was popular, turning over customers at a rapid rate and always a dozen or so queued up to get in.

You can feel history as you walk around the town, except perhaps in the middle hours of the day when the cruise ships and tourist buses are in. Apart from the mandatory walk around the city walls, we visited galleries, museums and churches in the couple of days we were there. We also walked out of the old town to a local beach for one last swim before we start heading inland.

Yes, we liked Dubrovnik. However, we both felt that the port town of Trogir was a better overall experience as it is smaller, the ships are right there in the town with you and the tourist traffic is considerably less.

Adriatic jewel of Dubrovnik

A jewel in the Croatian crown, even if expensive by Croatian standards is Dubrovnik. For us it was almost 5 hours by comfortable inter city bus from Split to Dubrovnik and a great ride along the coast road and some stunning scenery. We arrived early on Saturday evening to find the old town alive and well, if a bit overloaded with us tourists. We had booked an apartment in the old town just a couple of steps from a picturesque square and it turned out to be perfect for us. Close to all sites and eating places with no need to go outside the fantastic city walls. The place is full of history which we are slowly taking in.

Seeing a city like this and realising that just 20 years ago, war was tearing the place apart made us realise just how futile some people can be. Whilst most people just want to get on with enjoying a peaceful existence with family and friends, there are always those who covert wealth and resources and who have an overwhelming desire to control other peoples' destiny.

As a cross roads between “Christian Europe” and “Muslim middle east”, the communities in these parts have long suffered from outside invasion or indifference. Bosnia, Serbia, Lebanon, Gaza, Iraq, Afghanistan are all places where invaders, including Australia, have pursued, and continue to pursue misguided foreign policies with tragic consequences. There is plenty to learn by just sitting in a cafe in this beautiful city of Dubrovonik and watching the people of the world pass by enjoying themselves whilst the inhabitants here make the best of the assets they have preserved for us all.

Australia has been sucked into almost 9 years of useless invasion in Afghanistan based on cooked up pretences and is continuing these foolish polices which have unknown consequences as we follow a dying US empire towards an inevitable consequence of collapse. If only people who aspire for power and control could take the time to come to places like Dubrovnik for just a few days of actually thinking before acting then things might turn out differently for us all.

Le Tour de Croatia-derniere etape

Day 6 was an extremely impressive day on the island of Hvar. In the morning we sailed in to Hvar town where we had just an hour or so to check out the town. It was enough time to get a feel but soon enough we were on the bikes and climbing into the hills towards Brusje and the old town of Stari Grad. It was another quite tough day of climbing, climbing. Over the day we biked just over 40 kms with about 400-500 climbing metres required.

Stari Grad is a very sophisticated town with a long history of human inhabitation and we were glad to be spending the night there.

Day 7 was unfortunately the last of the bike riding. We sailed back towards the mainland and Trogir heading from Hvar and past the strategic island of Vis to the relatively quiet island of Solta. On Solta we had a fairly easy 19 kms of riding from an almost deserted Necujam to a little town, Maslinica. The day was hot and the hills were slightly flatter than the others. By now we were all just that bit fitter and more confident in handling the bikes and the conditions. So there was plenty of chatter going on as we rode along. We were also joined by a group on a sister ship also heading back to Trogir and the finish of their trip from Dubrovnik to Trogir.

After the bike ride we sailed along for about 30 minutes before stopping for just one more swim in the warm Adriatic. Heaven.

And that was our bike and sail adventure over. A farewell Captain's dinner, a restless nights sleep alongside in the now hot and noisy port and after breakfast we were packed and back into travel mode again.

Le Tour de Croatia-etapes quatre et cinq

On day 4 we made a brief stop at the tiny port on Mljet of Pomena to unload the bikes for our brief visit to this island national park. We only had time for a 12 kms ride to a couple of inland lakes and then a quick swim before getting back onto the “Romantica” and sailing away. By late afternoon we were tied up alongside other ships being 5 in a row of 7 deep, in the major resort town of Korcula and relaxing before our dinner.

Day 5 was the zenith for bike riding. An all day ride from Korcula town along almost the whole island to Vela Luka. About 60 kms of riding and 800 climbing metres. There was an option of a shorter ride to Racisce where you could be picked up by the boat as it was making it's own way to Vela Luka. And some did take the shorter ride.

For the majority, we found the first half of the ride to be very tough indeed. Training results were in and I have to say that the Germans, Swiss and Austrians were outstanding. There were some very fit forty, fifty and sixty year olds in this cohort. The Australians and the Swedes were quietly competent whilst the US component was quite good but showing the results of living in a society where technology is the answer to everything. When it comes to basic pedal power and fitness, the Europeans had us on toast, Not that this was a competition!

Coming down the mountain from Blato was almost a repeat of day 4's descent into Bol. Sheer exhilaration as you stream down through the ranges, sweeping around bends whilst taking in the views. Photo opportunities were sometimes difficult to do as it meant slamming on the brakes, taking a quick point and shoot before heading down again, trying to catch up with others.

A quick swim with the locals at Vela Luka and then it was food and wine before crashing into bed.

We just love the bike riding

Day 3 was quite dramatic, stimulating and quite tough at the same time. The 55 kms of bike riding included some 500 metres of climb as we made our way from Pucisca essentially across the island to Bol. These Croatian islands have a lot of high country once you get away from the small port towns hugging the coast. So after only a few hundred metres around the port area, you are straight into climbing up, up and up with no real relief. It was a morning climb and the day was obviously going to be warm. The promise was a dip in the Adriatic after reaching the boat which had moved to the beach resort of Bol. Most of us struggled up the steep hills and after only about 30 minutes of riding we were strung out over several kilometres with each individual trying to settle into their own rhythms. But the good part was streaming down the mountain from Humac in the centre of Brac Island to the beach town of Bol. Just fantastic being able to see for many kilometres along the coast whilst hugging the cliff side of the road. There was plenty of chatter over lunch as members of the group exchanged notes on the day.

From Bol we headed south towards the island of Mljet. We all enjoyed a mid afternoon dip from the back of the boat somewhere along the way just off a small island.

More details from bike and sail-day 2

Yvonne was rightly pleased with her bike effort and made it up the climb with only a bit of walking. The hills here seem to go on forever. As you turn one corner thinking this must be just about the top, another bend appears in front of you and your head goes down a little with determination. 27 gears were almost all put to use on this first real bike day.

We then had some lunch before leaving for a relatively short sail to the island of Brac. This island is famous for its' marble like limestone which was used in the US White House. In the town of Pucisca we parked just outside the school where interested people are taught stone masonry in the classical way, for 3 or 4 years. After dinner we visited the school and had a briefing on the history and techniques used.

A Kingsley smile from Korcula

After 2 days on board the Romantica, we were well settled into our holiday from our normal travel routine. The company that operated the tour is German and so, pleasingly, we now have a very international group of new friends. We were about 31 with a mix of Germans, Swiss, Italian, Swedish, US and Australians. The two young girls who were the guides are both Croatian as is the ship Captain and crew. The whole group worked and played very well, despite language difficulties.

We joined the group on time around mid day last Saturday in Trogir. Some people lost baggage en route so we were a little delayed getting out of the harbour. But the first day worked out well enough with an hour or so on the bike at Split followed by dinner and a short guided walk through Diocletian's Palace where we had been a day or so before by ourselves.

We slept on board in Split port which was a bit noisy at times for some although R had no trouble in his below deck cabin. The next day we sailed for about an hour to Omis on the mainland where we had a great ride for almost 5 hours along the Cetina River valley then steadily climbing up about 600 metres into the hills behind the valley. A separate group decided to go river rafting instead of biking but this was a softer option as the rafting was not difficult.

Island hoppers return smiling

The Croatian Islands at this time in history, in this part of summer and with this type of travel are an absolute delight to visit. We were given a warm and friendly welcome as we boarded our ship in Trogir port and shortly after that we headed off towards the port town of Split and our week of island hopping. The first day was dull and overcast but the weather improved to be sunny and hot for the rest of our time whilst the water always looked perfect and irresistible in every way. Whilst we saw many ships in harbour, as they dispersed each day into the 1,000 plus islands in these parts, there was plenty of room to be seemingly sailing along alone in paradise .

Whilst each island visited was often quite different from the others, the configurations were expectedly similar. The boat quays were very close to the town centre. The walkways are wide, extremely clean and a pleasure to wander along. There were often groups of men sitting on appropriately placed benches, cigarettes in hand and having a chat about the latest happenings. There were plenty of cafes for the younger set and the tourists to gather for coffee and a chat. Families on holiday were wandering along looking for a place for the kids to play or to have a swim. The islands are just full of history with evidence of times past. There is great respect for retaining the “look and feel” of these islands and so there is a refreshing lack of so called “modern” developments.

Life appears to be uncomplicated with a focus on simple routines. But then there is also plenty of evidence of modern “sophistication” and opportunity to enjoy modern creature comforts. The whole country has a quietly confident and relaxed feel about it. The people we dealt with were all very friendly and courteous and they had no issues with our language shortcomings.

The island hopping experience exceeded our expectations in every way. Our group was 31 and we came from 7 countries to get here. We had an almost perfect week. The ship “Romantica” is a very comfortable and relatively new ship built along traditional lines. The crew was great and our two young female tour guides were fantastic. And we enjoyed good food, drink and company whilst making new friends.

We had no trouble filling each day with our planned bike rides along or across the islands of Brac, Mljet, Hvar, Korcula and Solta. The early in the day climbs up out of the ports were often quite tough but the free wheeling finishes, often sweeping around cliff side roads before diving down into the next port were exhilarating. In between we enjoyed our swims off the back of the boat, in harbours or along the coast.

This part of Croatia is a great part of the world. In short, our island hopping experience was just fantastic.

Davidenja for now

After our day in Split we spent the next day locally in and around Trogir. From the island old town we walked over to the next island to join a few of the locals and holiday makers on a small beach. The weather was perfect although around mid day a breeze was developing. A bit of relaxation, reading and a swim or two and we were on our way back looking for lunch.

A check of the port revealed that our ship had arrived and was getting a few things ready for the next voyage. An Insight tour bus was in town and we could hear Aussie drawls throughout the town as we wandered along. It must be a big voyage we are on as Yvonne was predicting who of these visitors would be on the trip with us. And these people were certainly analyzed from afar on their perceived fitness and ability to handle the bike ride.

By the time evening had arrived, Trogir port was over-flowing with people. The ships were lined up 4 deep in places and just about everyone was strolling along the quai enjoying the balmy air, including us.

And so we are now ready for the next part of this journey. Sadly, it is unlikely that we will be able to blog until about 3 July when we will be in Dubrovnik. It seems that the number of tourists are increasing rapidly now and so we are expecting things to be more crowed when we return to Trogir next Saturday.

Listening to David Gray as I type this up.


“Sail away with me honey.
Hold my heart in your hands
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me
what will be will be
I want to hold you hold you now, now, now”

Davidenja

And yet more of Split

More of Split

Stunning Split

Yvonne's game climb above Trogir

Days in Dalmatia

Doing Splits with Zadar

Now we are in Trogir, a small UNESCO protected town about 40 kms from another UNESCO protected town, Split. Both towns are great. Plenty to see, great places to eat and drink and not too many tourists about, except for the Japanese tour groups who have come back on the scene and who faithfully trot along en masse to and from their buses.

Just to backtrack a couple of days. We spent a quiet couple of days exploring the medieval town of Zadar. This city has had a long history of suffering under armed aggression. The catholic Venetians talked the crusaders into sacking the city centuries ago and their last problems were in 1995 in the Yugoslavian wars. Consequently the city is not the greatest but the old town itself was worth a few hours.

In keeping with historical places in Croatia, the old towns are port towns and it seems that every boat ever built is here in Croatia. Water traffic is constant and most impressively, the walkways along the shores are great places for access to small beaches, swimming, cafes, marinas and accommodation. We felt very relaxed in these environments.

The Croatian coastline is much better than the French and Mediterranean coasts. The people are friendlier, there are almost no (obvious ) vagrants or spivs (Rupreck) as seen around places like Nice, St Tropez, Beaulieu sur Mer etc and the walkways and promenades are fantastic, spotlessly clean and very wide areas.

Last night we watched the Australian football team end its' World Cup campaign and prepare to head home. Then our phones started jumping with heaps of text messages (thank goodness we had just got off a local bus or there would have been some strange looks as mobile phones are not so common here) to say that Rudderless Rudd was on the skids. We knew Australians have giant inferiority complexes as reflected in desires for serious world sporting success, but we thought this action might be taking things a bit far.

But no. This morning we put the travelling computer online to the ABC radio to find that Bulldogs Full Forward really is the top dog and Kev O'lemon had kicked an own goal. The story has even made television news over here (not that it is in a language we can understand). The TVs over here are showing very serious segments from France and now Italy with national leaders and sporting ministers explaining to their political representatives their own national shame. So we hope Julia will welcome home the football team appropriately so we are not left with the same taste in the national psyche as we had after our inglorious exit from Viet Nam in the 1970s. We are learning in this part of the world just how far memories can extend if national troubles are not dealt with properly.

Swimming Opatija style

Lazing with Lace in Pag

Never heard of Novalja on Pag Island, Croatia? Neither had we, almost until we arrived here. We came this way as it is the most convenient way to get from Rab to Pag Island for those on foot like us. We had aimed to stay in Pag itself as the main reason for passing this way was for Yvonne to gain an insight into the local lace industry. But although a look at the lace was interesting enough, the town itself looks to be struggling a bit. Pag Island is quite flat with very little vegetation and moonlike hills around the town. There are quite a few tourists here seeking sun and water but it is not quite the place we expected. We did however find the first International Lace Festival being held in Pag which was interesting with stands from Poland, Austria, France, Slovenia and of course Croatia.

On the other hand, Novalja is about 3 times as big as we expected and we are staying just up the slope towards the edge of town with a nice view around. Coming home on a 9pm bus last night from Pag, we were accompanied by plenty of young people apparently looking to enjoy “vigorous arse-shaking, prolific beer and cocktail drinking with hundreds of nearly naked gyrating bodies” (Lonely Planet). There are apparently a couple of quite nice beaches around Novalja where the younger set gathers and we are looking to get a day time feel for them tomorrow.

A day or so here is enough and we will be off further south to the medieval city of Zadar (Zara) tomorrow.

Time in venetian Rab town

Rab town is a creation from the days when the Dalmatian islands were sold off to Venice. Now it is a lively little medieval town and port, filling up with European on holiday makers, mainly from Austria/Germany and Italy. We thoroughly enjoyed our couple of days here.

We had a practice bike ride one day which turned into an adventure or trial, depending on which one of us you talk to. Our plan was to hire bikes and get some time back on the seat before our forthcoming bike sail sejour. We hired the bikes and got a map of the island showing the walking and cycling tracks and off we set. Well the maps here are not so detailed and we went down several tracks/roads and had to return. However we entered a nature reserve and took off on the cycling path only to find that their idea of a cycling path and Yvonne's were not quite the same. Yvonne had not counted on taking up mountain bike riding! A young teenager would have been in heaven! The path was so rocky and steep we had to walk our bikes down to the bottom. At the end of this track we met two Germans (who spoke German only) with no map who we had an incomprehensible conversation with regarding directions. They just spoke louder – but we still didn't understand! After that we kept to the main roads. We did manage to have two dips in the sea to cool off on a rather warm day.

The next day here we thoroughly explored the narrow alleyways in the town and joined the locals on the rocks and had a swim in the beautiful clear waters – which are so inviting. We love the seaside walkways Croatia has around towns which stretch for many kilometres. They are a pleasure to wander along and a great way to gain access to the water. Sure, the “beaches” are nothing like we have in Australia but that misses the point somewhat. Here it is all about lifestyle and the ability to have a chat with friends and family whilst the young ones frolic away. Meanwhile there are numerous yachts, taxi boats and general little runabouts going about their business, cafes offering services and plenty of tourists like us enjoying the ambiance.

If you get to this part of the world, put Rab Island on your agenda.

Gradually moving south along Dalmatia-Opatija

Blogging our travels like this is self indulgent but it is a good way to capture experiences and thoughts as we go along. Also living like this is an opportunity to get back to basics. What ARE we doing? Why are we here? What will we do today? I wonder what is happening back home? How are the kids and their kids going? What will I get for Yvonne's birthday coming soon? What outfit will I put on today?

So, as you might pick up from the above ramblings, today is a another transition day with no set targets other than to make transport connections. It has rained a little overnight and the day does not look like it will go to our plan which was to go for a swim before checking out of the hotel, get a bite to eat, check the web and then catch a local bus into Rijeka where we aim to catch a late afternoon ferry south to Rab Island.

Yesterday we walked along the very well constructed coastal pathway to the old fishing village of Volosko where we sat by the water for some lunch. In the afternoon and after walking back into Opatija, we spent a few hours relaxing on our segment of the “beach”. A segment of concrete and tiling with a roped off area of the sea. The water was surprisingly warm so we are now expecting to be spending more time over the next week or so in the sea. Of course the water experience is just so different to Australia's with the possible exception of Port Philip Bay in Melbourne.

Today the hotel web site is down so Randall is just a little at sea without it. So with the weather not so good and no web we take our time clearing out of the hotel room.

By 1 pm things have improved so we take lunch at the “beach” whilst being mystified and entertained by a couple of holidaying eastern european families nearby. It is clear in this part of the world shape is not a reason to hide the body, whatever the age. So here we are, happy to be sharing the “beach” with all.

And eventually we caught our ferry and found our hotel in Rab town, some 2 hours south of Rijeka. Ready for a little more experience of holidays in Croatia.

Onto Opatija Croatia-Boomer tourists

Today we temporarily left the euro zone. Like something in a B grade movie (or more practically life as it was just a few years ago before the borders opened), our train stops at the last Slovenian station for a passport check. Our friendly border guards take quite a while thumbing through our passports trying to find the entry stamp made in May in Paris when we arrived. Finally they get there, our passports are stamped and returned and our train is away again.

A few kilometres further on and the process is repeated, this time by the Croatian police. And our engine is swapped over for a croatian one for the final run into the port town of Rijeka.

We have decided to stay at the resort town of Opatija which is about 15 kms out of Rijeka. We will get there by local bus. So at the train station and with the aid of a couple of nice people who had been with us on the train, we found an ATM for money, found the right bus stop, got the right tickets and then we were aboard and weaving our way out of the town. Yvonne was sure that a family on the bus were heading home after a day of pickpocketing in town so she was just that bit wary of what was going on.

But sure enough and after 20 minutes or so there we were trudging up the hill out from the main downtown area of Opatija looking for our digs for the next two nights.

We have learned that Opatija was created out of the Austro-Hungarian empire by those Hapsburgs types so the place looks quite opulent and imposing. The buildings are great (some renovated in period style while others are crumbling and in need of some tlc) and the water looks fantastic as we wander along the seaside pathway constructed along this part of the coast looking for dinner. We have changed from being simple Slovenian country folk into middle aged boomers looking to be typical Riveria types for the next couple of days at least.

There is a wide mix of people around but the dominating influence seems to be Italian older folk off for an early summer vacation. So after dinner, we are two of many wandering along with our ice creams and taking in the very relaxed ambiance around here.

From the terraces of Radovljica

It is just 10 am Monday morning. The village clock has chimed the hour and shortly we will take the train into Ljubljana before connecting to another train south towards Croatia and the Adriatic sea. Yvonne has headed off to find a few of those outdated things called postcards to send to various friends and family. So I am sitting on a huge outside balcony of the gastolina overlooking Radovljica and across the valley to the mountains beyond.

A good time to record some observations perhaps?

At one level, we are slaves to our own cultures and exposed to the media that surrounds our lives. For over 2 weeks now and since we have been in Europe, CNN is almost 24 hours a day on an oil spill which seems to be vitally important for the whole world. Do I really need constant commentary and a live video feed of the problem? Seems just a bit over dramatic for the world's biggest resource user and biggest polluter to be so focussed on this event when we know that similar oil leaks have been happening for years in the developing world? Nigeria is a complete mess and the US gets almost 40% of its oil from there. The leaks there are just as big as the BP one, peoples' lives have been wrecked and most of the world does not seem to care.

BBC has psychologists analysing the English football team after the draw against the US and the the goal keeper seems to be traumatised. Apparently his wearing a green jumper was also part of the problem. The BP situation is a concern with the BBC too, especially with Obama seeming to be blaming BP in particular and UK industry as whole for his own political troubles. BP dividends and therefore UK pension funds are also highlighted.

Australia is concerned about a football disgrace it seems and the politics of a Government, or better, a one man show, making a mess of the world's best economy is a continual focus. Management, leadership and operational skills with the Rudd government are at last being publicly discussed it seems. Talk about kicking our own goal. Rudd and cohorts have failed followers almost at every turn. So will they survive the year?

And here in Radovljica, life goes on, seemingly without much concern for the Grand Alliance. The gostilna staff are cleaning as guests depart. Yvonne and her new friend Katalina have exchanged gifts and promises on embroidery and Yvonne is rightly feeling pleased with herself despite language difficulties in cultivating the friendship.

Finally, Randall has his wi-fi connection and cursing the fact that today is a public holiday again in Australia and the market is closed so that he cannot get a stock price fix. Not that he has the decision making guts to change his portfolio today.

So he downloads another hundred or so photos from Yvonne's camera, completes a few blogs and posts them, updates the ipods with the latest ABC podcasts so we can be wired up with whatever subject we have taken a liking too whilst on the trains before checking banking details and payments etc.

That leaves one or two emails to deal with. Perhaps skype might get a thrash when Yvonne returns.

One last day-Slovenia wins, Australia flogged

This morning was another bright sunny morning in Radovljica. We were up on the rooftop terrace after breakfast to catch up on some emails etc before heading off for a walk. The number of voices and noise coming from below was too much and we had to check out what it was all about. There was a 28 km bike race on plus another bike ride for the older members of the community on their old bikes and in period costume. Yvonne couldn't resist and had to go down for a photo shoot. About 100 photos later we have a full record (to be culled later). Some of the older men looked so cute in their outfits. One lady rode in with a basket full of flowers behind her. Others had their handbags, long dresses and hats. One old man had a fully wooden penny farthing bike. Another little boy was riding a wooden bike with only rubber tyres. Fascinating. After the race and riding was over they all sat down in the square to lunch – brought in by caterers.

At 11.30 am we decided we had better start our walk. We had intended just going down the valley but ended up walking along the river to Bled. It was a very pleasant walk under lots of shade.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent chatting to an English couple we met walking and watching Slovenia getting excited with the soccer.

Well this afternoon Slovenia won its first ever match at the World Cup. They are very excited. It is now a major risk crossing the road as they demonstrate their excitement whilst driving.

We then had just one last walk around town as Australia was getting thoroughly flogged by Germany. Language difficulties meant we were diplomatic in fessing up our nationality and thankfully, like Slovenia, expectations about winning chances were low. Off to Croatia tomorrow.

Ljubljana in one day

We are living about 50 minutes by local bus from Ljubljana (this was our choice), But it is easy to visit for a day trip. It was Saturday and in the central areas most businesses seem to only be operating over the morning. But there were certainly plenty of tourists like us ploughing along the streets of the whole town and checking the places out. It was certainly hot and felt like more than 30 degrees today so we were not moving along quickly. We liked the central markets; cherries, asparagus and other fruits looked good. After the obligatory coffee break we took the funicular up to the old castle overlooking the city and climbed up the tower for the great city views before going to sleep through a rather average video history of the city.

We observed a couple of wedding parties enjoying rather twee celebrations which included the release of white doves. Aaah and oooh you say.

From the castle we descended to the old city area by foot this time, where we had lunch in a cafe whilst watching a world cup football match. Looks like this football watching will be a common feature for the next few weeks.

After lunch we further explored the rest of the old city before running out of steam. We then had a drink or two, a cake and coffee before catching a late afternoon bus home.

Ljubljana is a city comfortable with itself without having a wide range of sights to take in. We were now more comfortable with our decision to stay out of town and visit as required.

Rudd less ramblings from Radovljica

As we stroll along our 16th century street in downtown Radovljica, we pass our Gostilna Lectar and head towards the old manor house next door. It is three huge floors high and has been extensively renovated over the last few years. It now houses several music training rooms and other rooms where performances take place and there are also a musical museum and a museum dedicated to bees. Over most of the day, you can see young kids with musical instruments heading back and forth from the manor for their lessons.

Despite the somewhat odd topic for us of bees, we enjoyed an hour or so there learning about growth of the bee keeping industry in Slovenia. It has been practised here for centuries and the museum even has an active hive in operation as it has access to the outside world. There are workers coming and going and other bees doing their stuff. Drone Randall and Worker bee Yvonne could not be more industrious than this bee colony in full swing whilst the queen looked to be enjoying her life to the full.

Opposite the manor house and next to a bar there is the old punishment seat from way back so Randall was sent to the naughty corner for a few minutes. Not sure what happened when in real operation but thankfully it is a fairly tame show today.

Next we visited a 16th century house just opposite our gostilna where we were given a tour of the old kitchen area and living rooms where today civil marriages can be held. The houses here are quite narrow fronted but go a long way back with sleeping areas at the back and with big views across the valley.

From here we head towards the Augustin restaurant where we dined exceptionally well with a good table on the terrace looking towards Trg mountain. Radovljica is certainly an active place and we have enjoyed our time here.

For those who have followed our other blog, I have previously referred to a special seat in Loubressac, France where life stands still and you can watch the BIG view forever. I can now report that there is a seat almost as good in Radovljica. Just on the edge of the old town with views straight down the valley towards Bled and Trg mountain. Fantastic.

A day in Bled

Now it is time for a Dober dan from Bled. This lake is quite something. We arrived by bus from Radovljica reasonably early in the day to find the lake had plenty of rowers training in fixed lanes strutting their stuff-no lay down Sally's here. Fantastic setting for a rowing carnival too.

Some persistent types were flogging sulky rides and others offered to row us out to Slovenia's only island-complete with pretty church on top. Bled has a similar relaxed feel to that we found in Hallstatt so we decided to enjoy a walk around the whole lake. We regularly come into range of Australian voices including a gang on motor bikes. There were other couples like us just enjoying the ambiance of the place. There must be something about Bled that attracts us from down under or maybe we respond to the same advertising.

After lunch and after discussing whether we would copy son Daniel to row wife over to romantic island whilst here, we opted to leave it to another day. A swim could have been possible as the weather was good. However, it is very early in the season here and although there were a few locals sunbathing, only one or two were in the water and the bathing places along the lake were closed. The water tested cool.

Bled is well worth a visit and it would have been good to get to the nearby alpine Lake Bohinj. But no car this time and too far to get to in time available. Maybe next time.

Dober dan from Slovenia

We are now resident in an interesting gostilna in Radovljica, Slovenia. In somewhat typical fashion we decided to avoid the more tourist oriented option to stay in Bled. Radovljica is about 15 minutes by local bus from Bled and 40 minutes from Ljubljana. Pension Lectar has been a ginger bread making place for many years and, together with this town it seems be thriving as a combination ginger bread establishment, a museum, a workshop for locals learning the trade and a tavern/restaurant/hotel. When on the first night here we emerged from our room to go for dinner only to find a US oriented tourist group coming in for the ubiquitous group dinner accompanied by local musicians we learned that the place has plenty of get up and go. So we changed our minds about dinner and went to gostilna Augustin just a few doors along. Both places have large dining areas towards the back of the establishments with big views across the valleys and mountains. The next night we did eat “at home” with another group present, this time from UK. And we have learned that more groups will be here over the weekend. So much for escaping from other tourists but at least they are only here for an hour or so.

We like the place so much though and it is clear that Radovljica is on the move. The old town where are located is quite well preserved with great places lining the 16 century thoroughfare leading to a fine church at the end. Music is big here too and it would have been interesting to be around for the 2 week classical music festival in August.

And finally, just to backtrack for a bit so say that we managed our way through connections of a boat/ferry, 5 trains and 2 buses to get from Hallstatt to here, getting here about 30 minutes off schedule. The train systems are great but without language it is always a bit of a test when the train stops and we are told and sort of understand that, due to line difficulties, we need to take to the buses. The system works so we did not end up in Italy or somewhere else.

Off track before icing up

Today we planned a walk up through the mountains and then on to the ice cave and home via the lakeside. Our path quickly becomes narrow, wet, slightly overgrown and crosses mini waterfalls and appears to have been little used. However we keep going on and know where we are on the map when we come to a landslide which we have to cross. We manage this only to not be able to find the continuation of the path. Randall spends some time going up and down and around in search of our path, but to no avail. Yvonne suggests we turn back as she has no wish to be lost in the forest again, as in Japan, and have to slide down the mountain. Randall reluctantly agrees to this. As we cross back over the avalanche, Randall feels to climb down by the landslide will save a lot of time rather than returning by the path to our village. So we take this challenge on. Not easy. I now know why I was given a well padded bum (Yvonne) it came in handy to do some sliding down the side of the avalanche instead of trying to step. It took some time but we made it and found the road below. We were at least three quarters of the way along this track.

We continued by road until we found the next track up the ice caves which presented no problems.
We first of all took 2 funicular rides up to the top of the mountains in the hope of a view from the 5 fingers. The cloud was variable and clearing from time to time in but it was not going to be our day. We returned down to the first level and the ice cave. I (Yvonne) have not been in a cave for 30 years, after not enjoying my last experience. However after having survived the salt mines, I decided I would try the ice cave and the ceilings in pictures did not look too low and claustrophobic.

It was a great experience, very cold and icy but our guide was excellent and we learnt about the history of the cave. In places the ice is 25 metres think and the ice flows through the caves looked fantastic. R could not help thinking what it would be like stepping onto the ice and then sliding off into oblivion. The mountains around here must be half empty it seems.

We finished the day with a walk back along the lake and dinner overlooking the lake now fully recovered from our escapade down the side of the avalanche. As I write the little wooden canoe style boats are gliding by and the swans and ducks going about their business crossing the lake.

Hallstatt Brauhaus gasthof

Brauhaus Gasthof is a creative piece of work which has combined three former houses and a one time beer tavern (licensed in 1504) into a rambling 3 or 4 story place filled with old furniture and knick knacks, old portrait paintings, stuffed birds and animals and an eclectic mix of furniture.

The breakfast room for guests only is tucked away on the first floor next to the small reception and office area. Within this room each zimmer has its own assigned seating and we are tucked away in one corner of the room on benches. Behind Yvonne on the window sill looking out to the street below and the lake is a wooden bird in a cage and a bit like the monty python dead parrot it has not moved in the four days we have been here. Next to Yvonne is a large, obviously heavy set of drawers and writing bureau which has to be at least 80-100 years old. On the wall above the drawers are three plates whilst in the next corner sits a medieval statue some 2 feet tall and on the window sill sits another caged wooden bird. Along the wall we see 6 portraits. Two, a middle aged woman and an old man were obviously completed by the same artist in the early 1900s. Next we see a huge and very old water based heater made of porcelain whilst above the entry door there are a small set of antlers.

As with most eating places in these parts there are hooks set along the wall for hanging cloaks and coats whilst next to this is a very large bureau which holds the breakfast dishes, glasses, jugs etc. The buffet breakfast is typical germanic fare.

Completing our gaze around the room are three small paintings of local hunting and sailing scenes and another large portrait painting. There are huge beams supporting the ceiling and floor surfaces are either wood or slate, all uneven through wear over the years.

The gasthof has a series of old creaking wooden stairs which snake their way through the building and which connect to halls, sitting areas and various rooms of unknown use. It seems that the owners and some of the workers live in various rooms on several floors so we are never quite sure just who are guests and who live here. Various cabinets filled with old dolls, crockery and old utensils complete the mix.

Wonderful walking in sunny south slavia

For our second walking day we have decided to walk around most of the Hallstattsee, about 20 kms. It is another bright sunny day and after a leisurely breakfast we set off to catch the funicular up towards the top of the hills behind Hallstatt where we will start the walk. It is Sunday so we are unable to buy a sandwich for lunch and we will rely on seeing something along the way or, if needed the fruit we are carrying.

We head off from Rudolphsturm following a slightly downhill track which winds its' way high above Hallstatt and across several waterways. The forest around us is quite brilliantly lit by the filtered sun and enjoy several hours simply ambling along the pathway. The track follows the pipeline (Soleleitungsweg) which has been in operation since 1607 carrying brine to Ebensee where the salt is extracted. The original 13,000 pipes were made from wood and some can be seen from time to time as we go along.

After about two hours we start heading down towards Steegn where the lake ends and the Traun river recommences its run north. As we go through farmland and walk in the fairly hot sun, we start to slow down and are obviously losing time against our schedule. We have to make a decision soon on continuing or going on as the destination for us is Hallstatt railway station (and the boat which will take us almost to our hotel ) which must be reached around 6.30 pm. Otherwise we are in for an even longer walk right around the lake.

Yvonne takes no real encouragement to stop at a nice looking cafe for lunch as by now we had been walking for over 5 hours and are past the point of no return. Randall had made a slight map error in a small village but we managed to correct this fairly quickly, losing about 1 km and 15-20 minutes.

We enjoy a great salad lunch complimented by beer and appfelsharle but before long we are back into the heat of the day and winding our way south in between the railway line and the lake. On this side of the lake locals have their small summer houses with boat sheds constructed over the water. Bike riding is also popular today with heaps of riders passing in both directions.

There is also a small cafe along the way filled with people enjoying their Sunday afternoon in the sun.

By now it is clear that we will easily make the railway station and boat ride so the pressure to maintain pace comes off and we relax a bit - Randall less so than Yvonne. By now Yvonne wishes she was a swan and could just glide across the lake to home, as the water looks so cool. The last few kilometres along the lakeside include botanical information (which we cannot read) and a then an over water walkway complete our journey to the station.

We wait about half an hour for the next boat and after 7 hours and 20 kilometers we are back in Hallstatt and happy to be there too.

A Slice of Heaven on Earth

The rivers are close to being in flood as the train winds its way from Attnung-Puchheim towards our next stop, Hallstatt. A few fields are flooded and some walkways are underwater. We are on a small local train now but it is fairly new with plenty of bike space, and not too many passengers today. We are reminded on the train run into Chamonix except that this train is winding its way along the glacial lakes.

It has to be said that Hallstatt is a real gem. The train pulls up alongside the lake where a boat is waiting to take passengers to the town itself on the other side of the lake. We drift across the lake towards the salt mining, UNESCO protected town. Lake water levels are obviously up with some lake edge car spaces under water. The lake is lapping at the doors of the garages and boat sheds and covering the landings. The weather is coming good and life is starting to be bright again. It is noticeable that this village suffers from tour groups but it is a very quaint place and we feel that we will enjoy our 5 days here.

The Bruahaus where we are booked in is a fantastic shamble of rooms. Ground floor is a cafe and restaurant. There is a lake side beer garden just over the road. First floor is the reception and breakfast area and we have to wind our way up 2 floors to our quaint room. We have a balcony for two where we can sit and watch the boats drifting across the lake. The swan and her 7 signets pass by and ducks regularly cross the lake.

The many many waterfalls are cascading down the mountains and under the village only to emerge a few metres before it runs into the lake. The birds and singing and the sun is shining through the leaves in the forest. A wonderful day for a walk. Yvonne used to think that the suggested times for a walk were slow. Time has moved on and now she celebrates finishing on or before time. After climbing climbing Yvonne steps out of her comfort zones to don a pair of overalls and walking several hundred metres deep into the mountain to learn how salt has been extracted from these mountains for at least 7000 years. A first slide which was the old way for miners to move between levels within the mine wasn't too bad. Little did she know there was a second longer and faster one to come. She was happy to survive although she could have listened to Randall and watched utube where people have put their home made movies of the journey within the mines and saved herself a bit of a panic attack.!

At one stage we were about 200 metres under the mountain top following a series of sound and light shows as we were guided around the mine. Fascinating! The rulers from Salzburg gained plenty of income over the centuries exploiting the workers until eventually the Hapsburgs got into the act, took over ownership, nationalised the salt industry and took most of the income. Sounded much like the same process that Kaiser Rudd is trying to do with Australian resources right now.

And as for Hallstatt itself, the residents are not happy at the moment as the bureaucrats are trying to introduce new heritage laws to control changes in their houses, including interiors. This means photographing and recording all interiors and furniture and many houses have protest signs up. We signed the local petition and are sympathetic to their concerns.

Old Timers in Salzburg

The rain in Salzburg continues but it looks to be easing today. The river is up quite a bit and we believe that further north in Germany, there is some flooding. So we walked the short distance along the river and into the old town to check out the Salzburg museum. This museum was surprisingly modern in concept and exhibitions and we spent a couple of hours there learning more about Bavarian, Salzburg, Austrian and French history in particular. There were also some interesting local painters exhibited too.

As is often the case when you do not really know what is going on in s foreign country, we emerged from the museum to find a huge old car rally in full swing through and around the town. We also had not realised that the day was a public holiday so that explained why we had a bit of trouble finding a coffee shop open for breakfast.

In any case the car rally was interesting and we were sure that the 4 grandsons would have enjoyed it too. Even a few old minis on show and a kids pedal car driving school was in operation in central Salzburg. To finish off our short transition through Salzberg, we climbed up out of the town and walked part way through the forest. Then it was home to the hotel, a bite to eat at a very popular nearby italian restaurant and then we reviewed our plans for the next five days in Hallstatt.

Dealing with damp times

Somewhat unusually for the season it appears, we are passing through areas where it is continually raining. For us, this rain brings little threats and opportunities. For Randall this travel through Bavaria and Austria is a bit of a joining activity as we head towards Slovenia, a country new to us. For Yvonne it is more about not wasting the opportunity to DO something. So we are having different views on what to do to fill in our wet days.

In Munich, after exploring the city centre, we exhausted ourselves by touring the former royal residence and the treasury. We are not experts on European Royalty so the Bavarian line of Protectors and Kings is still somewhat over our heads. The treasury has some fantastic and priceless items often made by French and German craftsman. But in reality these items were symbols of power and excess and a means of demonstrating what? Having the finest gold crowns, exquisitely carved rock crystal serving and display items and military orders created for only a select few of certain breeding, seems to be obscene. But perhaps that is what we humans are at times.

In Salzburg, we wandered again around the old town with the other tourists, mainly American it appears, after we had a typical Austrian lunch in a beer house. Salzburg has definitely been taken over by tourists since we last visited some years ago. After lunch we walked around in the ever increasing wet town before calling it a day and heading back to the shelter of our hotel.

We are now well beyond our normal comfort zones; we have little German language, of the 30-40 TV channels, we only really comprehend CNN and organising our meals and travel has been interesting. Yvonne is comfortable with the lack of language in that most people here have at least a little English but Randall finds it frustrating at times.

Technology is everywhere these days and we are contributing to its spread. In Munich we breakfasted at perhaps the best internet cafe we have come across. Good coffee and light breakfast, plenty of comfortably spaced terminals and great tables and couches for us wireless types. On the walk, we were getting updates on AFL scores as we wandered through medieval France and a couple had the walk programmed into their GPS telephones so they were able to keep us on track without our paper maps from time to time. Even in the train from Munich on Wednesday, we had continual map progress updates, predictions and actuals on next stops and train speed on screens throughout the train.

But the TV news is pretty much the same everywhere, whatever the access. European and US channels show the same shots of Sam Stosur beating Serena Williams and the Jankovic at Roland Garros as our internet access to ABC news. Everyone now has the same story on the UK taxi driver shooting incident and on troubles in Gaza and we can watch “Midsummer Murders” in at least three languages so I wonder about news items from time to time.

Which leads me to a final comment for this blog. Yvonne thinks I am a bit twisted and perhaps she is right but I cannot help imagining just how many humans are crawling over the planet these days and what it must look like from above. In Paris, the metro was packed with all sorts dashing around under the ground on their way to? All of the railway stations have seemingly masses of business types, pensioners, back packers, school kids, tourist groups and travellers like us towing their bags and setting off all over the continent to what end? What are we searching for?

Slightly damp in Munich

Just getting to the TGV out of Gare de L'est on Sunday morning was a good test of co-ordination and work, or something close to work. Yvonne and I were scheduled to eventually be on the same train into Paris on the following Saturday afternoon, which duly eventuated. But there was just a bit of tension as we grappled with a french rail system in 'perterbation' as Sarko tries to raise retirement ages from 60 to 62, with country rail services which included the odd bus or two and just the uncertainty of being on the move in a foreign country. We then lobbed into Saturday evening Paris metro services to find our hotel and then fitting in an all too brief Paris encounter with Eleanor and Andrew at Bastille to recall some of the good times we had in this town over 26 years ago. It seemed that most of the world seemed to be gathering around Bastille for a long evening or two; people of the streets, a political protest, youngsters looking for a good night out and others looking pretty well lost.

On Sunday morning we managed a hasty conversation over croques monsiers and coffee with Yvonne's sister Jenny and her friend Maureen before ducking back into the metro and heading off towards Munich.

Paris is still a great city but our brief encounter left us with a feeling that it has seen better times and is losing it's French “cool” image-more aggressive, too many people and a bit down on it's former glory.

The change to Germany has been remarkable. Yesterday was very cool in Munich with some persistent showers. The city centre is very enjoyable and rather sophisticated, even if we were cooler than we would have liked. But a couple of treats in comfortable, homely wood lined taverns drinking beer and apple drinks whilst eating sausages and sauerkraut managed to fix things. Last night we ate in a local beer hall just up the road from our hotel and it was very comfortable experience, the food was good and we are looking to similar experiences today.

A quick look at Australian happenings was not that much a source of interest. Rudd and co are now making such a mess of things that we are wondering if we should ever go back down under. The resources tax is just the latest in major blunders being made in policy setting and it makes us wonder where these people are getting advice from. Roll on election day.

Les Trois Chenes-A week in residence

My first adventure in France going solo began with three days staying with friends in Paris. During this time of very pleasant weather I managed to visit the Musee de la Toile de Jouy, an exhibition of paintings of Versailles in the times of Louis XIV and the gardens of Albert Kahn. Together with enjoying the hospitality of our friends Raymond and Genevieve.

Then the challenge commenced with my train journey to Limoges and then on to Chabanais – the train that never appeared, and I still don't know why. But on questioning the station master at Limoges I was put in a taxi to Chabanais where I met my host for the next week, Barbara.

During my week of water colour painting I faced several challenges, commencing with a portrait drawing of Barbara's son ( a very patient young man – earning a euro or two). Not something I have ever drawn before. Each day commenced with a different aspect of painting which was followed in the afternoon with a visit outdoors to explore the method further.

Our visits included Rochechouart Chateau, including the Museum of contemporary art; a return visit to the very picturesque village of Brantome; the lively Piegut Market; Videix Lake; a very beautiful private Charente garden; a visit to a Porcelain factory shop; drawing at the site de Corot, St Junien and the local woods. Many of these venues presented me with new challenges which were enjoyable and sometimes surprised even me with the results in the time constraints. Now I have to put all this into practise. The week of sketching and painting was also complimented by the homely meals provided by Barbara's partner, Dursin.

A cute little country train trip and a bus finally got me back to Limoges where I would have had about 2 minutes to spare had the train been on time!!!! And a rendezvous on the 3630 with Randall!!!

Dordogne Walk 2010

So now we are back together again and we left on the TGV heading from France and into Germany on Sunday 30 May as planned. Time has not stood still of course but the world of Australian politics, global finances and even Australian news seems a long way off. And perhaps these things should stay out of view. When walking in the centre of France with 9 other Australian blokes (well there was the obligatory pommie and also a kiwi), issues reduce to the navigation issues of the day, what might be on the menu for dinner that evening, who gets to share with a snorer and whether the red wine should be from Bordeaux or Cahors. What problems to have!

The weather whilst walking was outstanding, over 30 degrees on each of the early days, and fine weather almost all of the way. Only one morning when we loping along with rain jackets on.

Group dynamics were interesting for this old management consultant. The team has at least 6 strong shapers, a plant, another who adopted team role according to situation and, thank goodness, at least one completer-finisher. Not a shrinking violet to be found anywhere. Perhaps very difficult to find a better walking team anywhere.

Every French country house has at least one dog so it was perhaps inevitable that one of us would be bitten. Add to this the odd blister or two and we were discovering how well the French medical system works. It is a fine system, the envy of many countries I believe.

Fois gras, maigret de canard, Cahors wine, confit de canard, salad quercyoise, omelettes de cepes, Rocamadour cheese, ris de veau, fromage blanc, saucisson de porc, chardonay, sauternes, rhone wines, local beers and perrier menthe fresheners were also enjoyed over the period of this great walk.

In the end, Randall had spent 10 days in heaven. He sat on THAT SEAT in Loubressac where the world issues just disappear. It was perfect to just sit there after a great dinner at the “Lou Pastou” inn, not long after sunset, just watching over Castelnau Chateau, Chateau Montal, St Cere and the villages around. At least two others on the group were happy to share the experience and it was clearly a major highlight of the walk.